Tuesday, December 6, 2016

Basketball + Shoes + Design = Happy

It comes as little surprise to those of us who knew him from highschool, that Barton Liang, would end up designing shoes for a career. He was always sketching new sneaker ideas. Recently we caught up to discuss how he became a Designer II for New Balance and what he has learned along the way.

What is it about shoes that you love?

I think that growing up shoes were the easiest way for me to express my style. I was passionate about shoes because I loved basketball. I remember reading a review of a basketball shoe, the Adidas TMAC-2, and the article was evaluating the shoe on both its performance and its looks. That article taught me that Basketball shoes were functional on the court but also a part of your style off the court. Ultimately I got into shoes because it was a way to express my style and the interest held because I enjoyed that blend of function and style.

How many sneakers do you have today?

Oh! Haha!! I’ve managed to dial down the volume of sneakers I own. At work I’m surrounded by sneakers so I don’t see a need to collect as many as I used to. I collected sneakers so I could look at them and appreciate their design. As I’ve gotten older I can find the same satisfaction by seeing the shoes in-store; I don’t need to own them. But to answer your question, I obviously stick exclusively to New Balance—mostly in black and white, maybe a heathered gray if I feel like lightening up a bit—and have about 25 pairs of sneakers. It’s manageable. In high school it was worse; most of my money was disposable and that all went into sneakers.

Did you ever doubt that you would become a shoe designer?

I think that every creative person has those doubts. I consider myself incredibly lucky because I’ve had this goal that I’ve wanted and I’ve managed to get it. But I have had countless moments when I questioned whether it would happen. If you talk to a creative person and they tell you they always knew it would happen, that’s not the complete picture. There’s always a moment when you wonder if it will happen.

If you weren’t a shoe designer, what would you be doing?

As far as a backup plan went, apparel design or luggage design jumped out at me. I still remember the conversation I had with myself when I was job searching. I decided that as long as I was drawing and making something, I’d be happy—if I managed to also design shoes that would be a bonus. I’ve always been enthusiastic about soft goods. Today I enjoy speaking with the New Balance apparel designers because they have a different approach to textiles. It’s like two musicians from different genres of music talking to each other: we speak the same design language but have different deliverables.

How have you improved your design skills?

I think it’s very important to find a mentor early in your career. I’ve been fortunate to have very supportive supervisors who have mentored me. First was Ian Burgess, who loved experimenting with design and encouraged me to always be curious. Today it’s Andrew Nyssen, who has taught me to view mistakes as opportunities for growth and trusts me to learn from them. They’ve both pushed me creatively and I’m better for it.

What has been the most important lesson you’ve learned?

Knowing when to be decisive and when to explore. When you start out in a design career you have to realize that you’re not creating art, you’re creating a sellable product. Sometimes I’m given the time and creative freedom to explore many different concepts and materials. Other times I have to be much more straightforward with my assigned tasks. I’ve learned to recognize when a project needs quick decisions and when I can explore ideas. I’ve learned to enjoy that different projects challenge me creatively and others challenge my problem-solving skills.

How do you know when it’s time to stop exploring and time to make decisions?

Usually right before my design review. Haha!! Like most creatives, whether I’m given one day or 100 days, I will use all of that time to explore ideas. Rarely do I feel like I’ve 100% arrived at the right design solution. I’ve had to learn to be more flexible with my solutions. I prefer to present multiple good options than one or two options that I think are great because if those one or two ideas aren’t approved after my design review I’m in bad shape.

It sounds like you really rely on the collaboration of a design review to reach a final design.

Absolutely. Collaboration is important because you don’t have all the answers. In the sporting goods industry we’re selling to a consumer who wants a product that is first functional and second fashionable. We take feedback from customers seriously and add that to our own internal dialogue.

What tips do you have for improving communication?

Learning to communicate effectively with others was challenging at first. It can be difficult to collaborate with someone who doesn’t understand how much creative work is invested in a project. Over time I’ve learned that if you try to understand what the other person is wanting to accomplish you can incorporate their needs into the product’s story. By addressing those needs you help the other person understand the design choices you made and they are more willing to accept them.

What are your proudest achievements at New Balance thus far?

I’d say there are two.
  1. Being able to join a company like New Balance.
    I grew up in Missouri and got to move out to the east coast even without any connections in the footwear industry. I actually applied twice for their internship program. My second time applying I was offered a 6-month internship. Once the internship was complete they offered me a full-time position and I’ve been with them ever since. 
  2. Being asked to move from Cross-Training/Tennis to Performance/Running. Obviously New Balance is a running shoe company so to be given the opportunity to move to the team with the highest visibility and highest-profile products made me feel a great sense of validation. There’s still a lot I’d like to learn and I’m grateful to have new opportunities to grow and contribute to this team.
What do you think is missing in fashion and footwear?
My favorite style is sport-goth. I love the designs coming out of Hong Kong and Japan because of their anime and cyber-punk influence. It’s hard to find western companies who make anything like that. Uniqlo and H&M have simplified versions of this look, but I want bigger and bolder silhouettes. New York and Tokyo Fashion Week are my favorite because of their street-style; geographically they experience all four seasons so the styles seen at these Fashion Weeks are very expressive. That’s another reason I got into sneakers. It was hard to find clothes I liked so I stuck with neutrals and let my shoes be the highlight. I think footwear is in a very interesting place today. The fashion aspect of footwear is more overt as opposed to being implied. While I really like a lot of the aesthetics of today's footwear I think it's important that it's balanced with a sense of function as well. Basketball and tennis shoes take quite a beating so it's important that durability is taken into consideration as well as looks.

To see the products Barton has helped design you may visit the New Balance website, or view their Instagram profile for running shoes. Thank you Barton for your story and I wish you continued success!

Sunday, December 4, 2016

Part 2/2: Thurston's Action Plan

2016 has been a year of great internal change for me. I made progress with understanding how to better communicate with my colleagues at work; I began to take action to design a life worth living; and my "life-guru," Jorge Reyes Sam, helped me see opportunities, not risks, in quitting my job to pursue my dreams. 

As the Men's Fall/Winter 2017 collections are presented this January I'm going to focus on the opportunities, not the risks. I will immerse myself in every fashion week and trade show for menswear. I will take a chance on life. I will enjoy the present. As Pablo Picasso said, "Our goals can only be reached through a vehicle of a plan, in which we must fervently believe, and upon which we must vigorously act. There is no other route to success."


My goal of working in menswear to design clothes and build brands depends on me taking action. The first step was recognizing the desire. The second step was starting this blog. The third step is to complete my insane itinerary for January/February. Every day will be packed with networking, learning about the industry, scheduling interviews, and lots of walking.


Thurston's Action Plan

Starting January 6th, and going until February 23rd, I will be attending the Big 4 Fashion Weeks and have registered to attend ten trade shows. Below I've listed my itinerary with a brief description about each event.
  • London Fashion Week | January 6-9 One of the "Big 4" fashion capitals. London is the youngest of the Big 4, and is therefore a good platform for new brands. It is best known for a more artistic-focus of fashion with more edgy, street-style designs.
  • Pitti Immagine Uomo | January 10-13 | Held in Florence, Italy, Pitti Uomo has grown from a trade fair to a fashion event. Incredible street style, emerging brands, and trend-spotting are in abundance here. 
  • Milan Fashion Week | January 14-17 | One of the "Big 4" fashion capitals and along with Paris has been historically influential in setting trends. Milan is best known for strong styling, and great craftsmanship. 
  • Paris Fashion Week | January 18-22 | One of the "Big 4" fashion capitals and along with Milan has been historically influential in setting trends. The oldest European Fashion Week, started in 1945, Paris attracts the most buyers and is the only presenter of haute couture. 
  • Agenda | January 24-25 | Held at Pier 92 in New York City, this menswear show features a wide variety of lifestyle brands. 
  • Capsule | January 24-26 | Held at Pier 92 in New York City, this menswear show features brands from around the world that are challenging themselves creatively. 
  • Liberty | January 24-26 | Held at Pier 94 in New York City, this newer menswear show also features brands from around the world that are challenging themselves creatively. 
  • MRKET | January 23-25 Held in the Jacob Javits Center along with Project in New York City, this large menswear show features sportswear and accessories, and has separate areas devoted to products made in Italy or the UK. A fashion incubator for new brands, Vanguards Gallery, is also on site.
  • Project | January 23-25 Held in the Jacob Javits Center along with MRKET in New York City, this large menswear show features contemporary apparel, footwear, and accessories. 
  • TexWorld | January 23-25 Held in the Jacob Javits Center in New York City, this show features an array of textile manufacturers.
  • New York Fashion Week | January 30-31, February 1-2 | One of the "Big 4" fashion capitals. The oldest of the Fashion Weeks. Started in 1943, NYFW established American designers as independent from Parisian influence. New York is best known for being more commercial, attracting more journalists, and features a greater emphasis on sportswear and casual. 
  • TMC-Men | February 6-17 Held in Zurich, this show features nearly 200 European brands and is one of two German-speaking fairs I will attend.
  • Supreme Women & Men | February 11-14 | Held in Munich, this show is in one of my favorite German cities and will be my first introduction to the German fashion market.
  • Collection Première Moscow | February 20-23 | Held in Moscow, CPM features nearly 700 brands from around the world and is one of the leading buying venues for eastern Europe.
Recalling the quote from Pablo Picasso, I have a goal to work in fashion; my travel itinerary is the plan in which I "fervently believe;" and by buying plane tickets, making couchsurfing contacts, and registering for press accreditation I am taking vigorous action. If there is no other path to success, then this January/February will put me on that path. 

I am so excited to meet more fashion professionals, improve my knowledge of the industry, and share interviews here on Thurston Threads! Thank you for joining me on this adventure!

Read Part 1/2: Intrinsic Motivation, to read of the importance of identifying what you want to do in life and pursuing it without compromising your enjoyment of the present.