Africa Through The Looking Glass

In recognition of #AfricaDay2017 it felt appropriate to share an interview with John Pritchard (pictured above), founder of sunglasses brand, Pala. Not only are his sunglasses well designed, but they are lifting people out of poverty—for every pair of sunglasses Pala sells they donate a pair of prescription glasses to impoverished regions of Africa.

Education is one of the most crucial tools for lifting people out of poverty and proper vision is one of the most crucial tools for enabling people to complete their studies. Inspired by Pala’s mission, Berlin photographer Martin Popp and I collaborated on a photoshoot to bring attention to a cool brand that’s making a difference not only on Africa Day, but every day. Please enjoy the story of Pala, below!

IKE glasses in green/black tort.

How did you get into fashion?

My route into fashion was very much different— I started with a cause and then found a product to support the cause. I've always had an affinity for Africa, and when I learned that 10% of the world doesn’t have access to eye care I took that as a starting point.

What prescription do your glasses have?

I'm -1.5 so I can get by, but I’m definitely better off with glasses.

NURU in gold.

What is the impact of providing vision to people in need?

Prescription glasses is one of the most economically beneficial tools because it enables them to work. For example, Ethiopia is a very cotton-based industry where a lot of jobs involve sewing and needlework. You can't thread a needle without a pair of glasses, so people with poor eyesight can't work and earn an income. Also, for children in school who can't see the blackboard or read their books they are immediately at a disadvantage. In many respects a pair of prescription glasses is better than giving money because you're giving something of lasting value.

ASHA in tortoiseshell.

Is there one story that sticks out to you? 

There was a father and daughter in Ethiopia who traveled 500km to get glasses. It took them 2 days! The father said that he wanted Gabra to go to university and that it was very important to have her eyes tested for glasses. 

Gabra (left) traveled 500km to get glasses.

What impact have your product cases had?

Our glasses cases are made from recycled plastic waste in Ghana by a number of weaving communities. Historically they've only been able to work for 3 months of the year because they only have seasonal access to the grasses. However, by using plastic that allows them to weave throughout the year. So there's a better regularity of income and it's a more sustainable opportunity for them.

Where do you get your plastic waste?

There are three sources—

1. In Bolgatanga, Ghana, you can take plastic bags in to get recycled; we buy those. We get them washed, cut into strips, twisted and woven into cases. 
2. We also use a charity called WaterAid. They use discarded plastic water sachets to carry emergency.
3. We go to a factory in Accra [the capital of Ghana] that makes plastic bags, and we buy the off-cuts or waste plastic from their production. Furthermore, any waste leftover from our weavers goes back to this factory to be recycled. There's basically no waste in our whole process of making these cases.

ZOLA in pink marble.

What's a milestone that you're proud of?

We're a young brand but we are coming up to our thousandth sale, which means that we've helped 1,000 people.

When you do take that one night off, how do you like to recharge?

I tend to go out with friends. On the weekends I'll go cycling. I do paddle boarding and climbing as well. I like to be physically active. I get a really good release from it—the stress floods out. 

DAYO in black marble.

Who is someone you'd really love to collaborate with?

My ideal would be Emma Watson because she's the same age as my target market and she's very into eco-friendly and sustainable fashion. She's also very empowering for women and as a father with a young daughter I value that. 

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Thank you to John for sharing your story! Glasses styles shown in the images above are in order of appearance: John is wearing NEO; Marcus is wearing IKE, NURU, ASHA, ZOLA, and DAYO. Additional information about Pala is available on the brand’s website and Instagram. 

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NYC Atelier in the Sky

Jonathan Meizler and I first met at TRANOÏ in Paris (men’s designer tradeshow). He and his business partner, Rony Zeidan, are the innovators behind the luxury accessories brand, Title of Work. Ties adorned with imported scarab wings, hand-sewn embroidery, and an articulated, sterling beetle/moth ring, were a few of the eye-catching pieces on display. The duo were kind enough to offer me a tour of their studio in New York City for Fashion Week, and the next week I followed up on their offer. Walking past countless flower shops on 28th Street, I arrived at their studio and made my way up to the light-filled penthouse, where I was able to speak with Jonathan about his collection.

You have such a great view from up here!

Thank you – I never tire of it… I love the view of the water towers – they epitomize New York for me. They give so much character to the city. The water towers do rupture though. We actually had a massive flood in our space last year when the main tower pipe burst and an inordinate amount of water gushed in from the ceiling. It was a disaster, but water is cleansing so we took at as a sign…

Can you tell me about the contemporary art pieces that feature your ties?

I created several sculptures based on various season’s collections. The few pieces on display include a white and black ‘dissection’ diptych made from mixed media including leather, wax and crystals. A second piece is a wood and lucite sculpture entitled ‘vivi-section.’ Each layer depicts materials used in the construction of a necktie from fabric to thread and interlining. The third piece is a cashmere tie in a cloche – hand beaded with hundreds of rattlesnake vertebrae, finished with an onyx stones.

Embroidered horsefly necktie in navy/red.

What do you love about fashion?

I find intrinsic pleasure in the creative process. I value craftsmanship in detailed and thoughtful design. It is a wonderful form of self-expression for myself and whomever purchases the piece. I am fortunate to have a ‘working atelier’ where the majority of the collection – both samples and production, are developed and made in-house.

Nine sterling wasps necktie and three styles of lapel pins. 

Why did you decide to expand into jewelry?

The idea of the jewelry came about organically and perhaps even sustainably. At the onset, we embroidered our neckwear with sterling silver, black diamonds, and 18k gold components. I found that many of the amulets used would be ideal for cufflinks and tie bars, and eventually bracelets, necklaces and rings were introduced. I enjoy design challenges in both form and function and always look to find thoughtful solutions to them. Our wrap bracelet is a good example of this. Several types of sterling chains are mixed with hand woven Italian leather creating a ‘multi-wrap’ effect so when worn it looks like you’re wearing several bracelets but really it’s just one.

Rose gold cuff (left), and leather and sterling silver wrap (right).

Will you introduce other materials in the future?

I am always interested in incorporating new elements or materials that work with my aesthetic and source new technologies as well as natural resources.

Do you think you’ll expand into apparel one day? 

As of now, I am inspired by the world of accessories – creating ‘one-of a kind pieces’ that tell a story. With accessories there's no issue with fit, and you can push the design, as accessories are a detailed focal point in an outfit. Perhaps one day I will create a ready-to-wear collection… but for now I’m good. 

Solid black organza oversized bowtie and lapel pin.

Do you have goals for the future or are you enjoying the present? 

Enjoying the present. Though I have many goals…

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Thank you to Jonathan for sharing your story! Additional information about Title of Work is available on their website and Instagram.

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3 Must-Knows of Shaving for Men

Longterm readers of the blog Shave Straight & Safe already know that blogger, Joe Borrelli, has been traditionally wet shaving for more than 7 years and enjoys it so much that he began hosting Wet Shaving Talk, a podcast dedicated to the art of classic shaving. As a follow-up story to my interview with the cofounder of ShaveFace I decided to reach out to this shaving aficionado to learn the must-knows of shaving and to discover whether he too touts the virtues of a strop.

So, Joe, why do men get razor burn?

There are several reasons why men get razor burn. In my experience these three are the most common:

1. Preparation before shaving: In today’s society everyone is in a rush and they often forget to prepare their face for shaving. Shaving immediately after a hot shower, or wrapping your face with a hot towel prior to shaving will prevent many problems. This process will lift the whiskers giving the razor a better angle for cutting them, thus making the razor more efficient.
2. Lubrication while shaving: Inadequate lubrication during the shave is another cause for irritation. Products of today are based upon speed and closeness rather than comfort and efficiency. The canned goo you find at your local supermarket/drug store can be the leading cause of irritation. These products do not exfoliate the skin, rather they sit on the surface and assist in gliding the razor rather than helping it cut the whiskers. A good old fashioned shaving brush and high-quality shaving soap/cream will solve that problem. The brush and soap/cream combination will exfoliate the skin and lift the whiskers making them easier to cut thus resulting in fewer ingrown hairs and irritation. In a nutshell these products help the razor do its job.
3. A dull blade: Using a dull razor can lead to serious razor burn as the blade is “tugging” rather than “cutting.” With the cost of cartridge razors today, many men tend to neglect changing their blades until it’s too late.

Why does a strop matter?

Stropping a blade is something that is required when using a straight razor and is becoming increasingly popular with other forms of shaving. It polishes the blade by removing oxidation and re-aligns the microscopic fin that does most of the cutting. Think of the edge of a blade as the edge of a pencil. Every letter you write wears the pencil down and its performance declines. When you sharpen it the pencil is almost like new again just a little shorter. Eventually you’ll use the pencil up and need to get a new one. Now look at your razor. Every time you shave (like the pencil) the razor dulls. When you strop it (like sharpening the pencil) it’s almost new again. Eventually you will have to toss razor but you’ll get far more use out of it.

Why is it important to use quality products?

It’s extremely important to use all natural high-quality products when shaving. Many products have been designed for speed, cost, and convenience; not necessarily for the good of your face. These lower quality products also tend to use mass-produced materials which are made with chemicals designed to keep the cost down for the consumer. Remember, you only have one face and it’s very important to treat it right. All natural products tend to perform better, last longer and smell nicer (and your face will thank you).

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Thank you Joe for sharing your shaving expertise. It's interesting to see how something I took for granted—that I know how to shave—actually can be performed better when following these tips: 1) Soak the face with a hot towel or shower to soften the hairs. 2) Use a quality shaving cream so it absorbs into the skin and hair, providing both lubrication and hydration. 3) Use a sharp blade that cuts rather than tugs.

In addition to his blog and podcast, Joe Borrelli is a freelance writer and regular contributor for the website Sharpologist.com. He currently owns 100+ razors some dating back to the 1700’s. You can view more info on his blog, YouTube channel, and he available for additional questions at joe.wetshavingnews@gmail.com.


Now through the end of May ShaveFace is offering free shipping with the promo code: ThurstonThreads

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$60k Plus A Dream

I met James O’Brien, Co-Founder of ShaveFace, during New York Fashion Week Men’s. He came up to tell me about how ShaveFace was going to change the way I shave: if I were to use their denim strop and sharpen my blades, I’d have better shaves, pay less for new blades, and their shaving creams were better than anything I’d used before. I left skeptical, but promised to try the sample of shaving cream. 

Back at my Airbnb the host and I both tried the shaving cream… and were surprised! My face felt hydrated even though I had not used aftershave. Even more surprising was my Airbnb host who said that he almost always gets razor burn from shaving and was amazed that his face felt good! With a personal testimonial to back the brand I scheduled a call to learn more.

ShaveFace cofounders, Casey Perkal, left, and James O'Brien, right.

How did the idea for ShaveFace come about?
It began when I was travelling in a band I’d joined in college. I had complained to my good friend, our drummer, about how my blades were dull and how they were expensive to replace. He told me that he sharpened his blades on his jeans. I was incredulous but tried it; and it worked fairly well. I made a rough prototype in Nashville and while at a bachelor party in Miami I met my future co-Founder, Casey Perkal. So we made a Kickstarter campaign which went really well—we had a goal of $24,000 and reached $60,000! 

What were some of your early struggles with starting the brand?
To be top of mind as a consumer product these days you have to be relatively omnipresent. You need to consistently have great exposure. Any time we have great press, things go really well. But as soon as that news cycle fades we're back where we were. It's partially because we sell a product that many people don't even know exists. They don't think, "I should go out and buy a piece of denim that can sharpen blades." They think, "Maybe I'll try a shave club, but I'll probably just go to CVS and buy new razors." That's one reason why we launched skincare products like shaving cream and aftershave. The only battle is getting your brand name out there; and obviously selling and creating a great product, which I'm proud to say that we do!

Do you feel like the business is going to become more about skincare?
We plan to continue making the strop. It does really well on Amazon and other sites because it is unique and it's really the only item of its kind. Nobody else makes one and it does solve a real problem. It's just far easier to sell large quantities of skincare goods—even if the market is saturated—than it is to sell a ton of strops; the consumer needs much less education and there is already ample demand. Skincare does well by word of mouth. When somebody tells you about the best shaving cream ever you're like, "I'm in!" When someone tells you that a denim strop sharpens your razors, you need to hear it nine more times before you actually pull the trigger.

I tried to sharpen my razor on my jeans but it didn't work; all that I managed to do was push my blades closed. Why does the strop work?
There are two parts to that. One, is that we use 14.1oz raw denim. We use a pretty rigid backing between the two layers of denim so as you're running your razor over the denim you have very little give. You need an even surface on which to strop. Two, if you're using your own jeans it's softer and the blades don’t press flush against the denim, resulting in inefficiency. 

What was it about the strop that appealed to you so much that you wanted to actually turn it into a brand?
I knew it was a problem that needed to be solved. We were finally informing ourselves that there were better options than what we were used to. Honestly it was also by meeting Casey who also felt that it was a good idea. An idea on an island is just an idea until someone else comes along and makes it better. 

Would you tell me about the jump from being in a band to being an entrepreneur?
I think it is important to note that being in a band is pretty entrepreneurial. There are fears and risks. It requires a lot of passion. You're not building a traditional career. If you fail as a musician you're not easily employable outside of music. If you fail as an entrepreneur you have more tangible business skills. I have to give a lot of credit to Casey and his family. They're entrepreneurial, very supportive and creative. I have learned that entrepreneurship was pretty much one of the most creative things that you could possibly do. You make something from nothing and then find a way to get the rest of the world excited about it too. You're putting yourself up for the loftiest of goals and defending yourself from the weightiest of sorrows every single day. It's fun and it's a wild ride.

What is something that you'd like to do before you die?
I would like to be involved in the food revolution that I believe is going on in this world. The way that we eat, and the farming practices that we use to provide food for our growing population, are untenable . That’s where my passion lies. My passions are in health and wellness. I love that I've been able to explore that through our skincare products. Skin is your largest organ. What you put on your skin is so important and a lot of people don't know that. So it's been wonderful to tackle that side of health and wellness. 

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Thank you to James for sharing your story! Additional information about ShaveFace is available on their website and Instagram. Now through the end of May 2017, ShaveFace is kindly and confidently offering free US-shipping for those who want an easy and enjoyable shave when you use the promo code: ThurstonThreads

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Showing Your True Colors

Part 2 from the interview with BEAU HOMME [click to view Part 1]– Do men experience emotion as fully as women? George Bunker, co-founder and designer for Beau Homme, argues that they inherently do, but men have been conditioned to dull their emotions. Today George kindly offers an honest, and in my opinion, much needed critique about American male-norms and how fashion is a means of revolution.

Why did you decide that fashion, rather than art, was the best medium for communicating your ideas? 
I’ve worked in “art world” but it’s a very limited audience.  To quote Robert Rauschenberg, “It’s white people, in white rooms, drinking white wine.” You’re selling the ultimate luxury object. The incredible thing about fashion is that there are hundreds of thousands of people talking about the shows and there is always a need for a new collection every six months. One change that has happened is that fashion became art, and art became fashion. I went to art school and many of us thought we could save the Earth but to make a living out of it you make pieces for banks or investors; you’re creating a luxury object that can be bought and sold as a commodity for the upper 1%. Art is the very last purchase a person makes – they’ll buy clothes, vacations, homes, and finally art. 

Could describe how you developed an interest in critiquing gender norms and identity?
Growing up I hated sports. I couldn’t play them and found them boring, yet in school they were so important. There are very narrow, prescribed, gender norms for boys. For all the struggles girls have gone through they are allowed much more freedom in choosing their interests. At some point I became conscious of these social constraints and saw that even within subcultures there are constraints. I feel like men are just as creative, imaginative, and sensitive as women, yet we aren’t allowed the same opportunities to flourish. From the moment a baby boy is handed a blue blanket he is shortchanged enormous possibility for expressing himself and the personas he could inhabit. 

I’ve always wanted to do fashion but I was also put off by it. It’s an enormously difficult task to try and provide men with an expanded vocabulary to express who they are. In society men are encouraged to shut down 90% of who they are. I don’t know how we got this way. I feel like there’s a crisis with masculinity and it’s not being addressed because men are discouraged from talking about their feelings. Anyway that we can contribute to supporting men, and who they feel they are, puts us on a good trajectory. That’s the drive that keeps us going beyond the next season’s trend or color.

Are there others in fashion who you think share your view of social norms and identity?
I think there is a collective questioning of traditional, prescribed social norms….or I hope there is. The individual is maybe more heard in this post-internet age…. although there does seem to be an outbreak of xenophobia spreading.  It’s a difficult world to be different in, so it’s vital that we all work to support one another.  Any advocate for the freedom and protection of personal identity shares my view.

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Thank you for your time George. I wish you continued success! Additional info for BEAU HOMME is available on their website and Instagram. And their Capsule Collection is shoppable at KWALEO.

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Key Takeaways

Drapers, a source for the latest fashion and retail news and trends held a webinar last week titled, "Reinventing the In-Store Experience: Blurring the lines between bricks and clicks." As more business continues to be conducted online it was an interesting topic. Below are highlights from the conversation.

THE PANEL & ABSTRACT

With today’s retailing environment more competitive than ever before, savvy UK fashion brands and retailers are using digital to win high street relevance over online-only competition, by delivering ultra-modern shopper journeys in their stores. The panel consisted of: Jamie Merrick, Director of Strategic Solutions at Salesforce. Dave Abbott, Retail Omni-Channel Manager at Dune London. Filippo Battaini, Research Associate at Fung Global Retail & Tech. James Knowles, Head of Commercial Projects at Drapers.

From left: Jamie Merrick, Dave Abbott, Filippo Battaini, and host James Knowles.

THE KEY TAKEAWAYS

1. The in-store experience should mirror the digital experience. If a service is easy and seamless online it should be the same in-store.
2. If your products are difficult to sell online, like men's suits, you may need to increase the level of in-store service so customers are attracted not only by your product offering but also by an appealing experience.
3. Embrace technology in order to continue improving the service you provide your customers. New technology commonly requires trial and error before you can extract the most benefits.
4. Make sure your current systems are seamlessly integrated into your brand across all platforms before introducing anything new.
5. Remember that if it's not improving the experience for the customer there's no need to add new technology.

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