Tuesday, December 6, 2016

Basketball + Shoes + Design = Happy

It comes as little surprise to those of us who knew him from highschool, that Barton Liang, would end up designing shoes for a career. He was always sketching new sneaker ideas. Recently we caught up to discuss how he became a Designer II for New Balance and what he has learned along the way.

What is it about shoes that you love?

I think that growing up shoes were the easiest way for me to express my style. I was passionate about shoes because I loved basketball. I remember reading a review of a basketball shoe, the Adidas TMAC-2, and the article was evaluating the shoe on both its performance and its looks. That article taught me that Basketball shoes were functional on the court but also a part of your style off the court. Ultimately I got into shoes because it was a way to express my style and the interest held because I enjoyed that blend of function and style.

How many sneakers do you have today?

Oh! Haha!! I’ve managed to dial down the volume of sneakers I own. At work I’m surrounded by sneakers so I don’t see a need to collect as many as I used to. I collected sneakers so I could look at them and appreciate their design. As I’ve gotten older I can find the same satisfaction by seeing the shoes in-store; I don’t need to own them. But to answer your question, I obviously stick exclusively to New Balance—mostly in black and white, maybe a heathered gray if I feel like lightening up a bit—and have about 25 pairs of sneakers. It’s manageable. In high school it was worse; most of my money was disposable and that all went into sneakers.

Did you ever doubt that you would become a shoe designer?

I think that every creative person has those doubts. I consider myself incredibly lucky because I’ve had this goal that I’ve wanted and I’ve managed to get it. But I have had countless moments when I questioned whether it would happen. If you talk to a creative person and they tell you they always knew it would happen, that’s not the complete picture. There’s always a moment when you wonder if it will happen.

If you weren’t a shoe designer, what would you be doing?

As far as a backup plan went, apparel design or luggage design jumped out at me. I still remember the conversation I had with myself when I was job searching. I decided that as long as I was drawing and making something, I’d be happy—if I managed to also design shoes that would be a bonus. I’ve always been enthusiastic about soft goods. Today I enjoy speaking with the New Balance apparel designers because they have a different approach to textiles. It’s like two musicians from different genres of music talking to each other: we speak the same design language but have different deliverables.

How have you improved your design skills?

I think it’s very important to find a mentor early in your career. I’ve been fortunate to have very supportive supervisors who have mentored me. First was Ian Burgess, who loved experimenting with design and encouraged me to always be curious. Today it’s Andrew Nyssen, who has taught me to view mistakes as opportunities for growth and trusts me to learn from them. They’ve both pushed me creatively and I’m better for it.

What has been the most important lesson you’ve learned?

Knowing when to be decisive and when to explore. When you start out in a design career you have to realize that you’re not creating art, you’re creating a sellable product. Sometimes I’m given the time and creative freedom to explore many different concepts and materials. Other times I have to be much more straightforward with my assigned tasks. I’ve learned to recognize when a project needs quick decisions and when I can explore ideas. I’ve learned to enjoy that different projects challenge me creatively and others challenge my problem-solving skills.

How do you know when it’s time to stop exploring and time to make decisions?

Usually right before my design review. Haha!! Like most creatives, whether I’m given one day or 100 days, I will use all of that time to explore ideas. Rarely do I feel like I’ve 100% arrived at the right design solution. I’ve had to learn to be more flexible with my solutions. I prefer to present multiple good options than one or two options that I think are great because if those one or two ideas aren’t approved after my design review I’m in bad shape.

It sounds like you really rely on the collaboration of a design review to reach a final design.

Absolutely. Collaboration is important because you don’t have all the answers. In the sporting goods industry we’re selling to a consumer who wants a product that is first functional and second fashionable. We take feedback from customers seriously and add that to our own internal dialogue.

What tips do you have for improving communication?

Learning to communicate effectively with others was challenging at first. It can be difficult to collaborate with someone who doesn’t understand how much creative work is invested in a project. Over time I’ve learned that if you try to understand what the other person is wanting to accomplish you can incorporate their needs into the product’s story. By addressing those needs you help the other person understand the design choices you made and they are more willing to accept them.

What are your proudest achievements at New Balance thus far?

I’d say there are two.
  1. Being able to join a company like New Balance.
    I grew up in Missouri and got to move out to the east coast even without any connections in the footwear industry. I actually applied twice for their internship program. My second time applying I was offered a 6-month internship. Once the internship was complete they offered me a full-time position and I’ve been with them ever since. 
  2. Being asked to move from Cross-Training/Tennis to Performance/Running. Obviously New Balance is a running shoe company so to be given the opportunity to move to the team with the highest visibility and highest-profile products made me feel a great sense of validation. There’s still a lot I’d like to learn and I’m grateful to have new opportunities to grow and contribute to this team.
What do you think is missing in fashion and footwear?
My favorite style is sport-goth. I love the designs coming out of Hong Kong and Japan because of their anime and cyber-punk influence. It’s hard to find western companies who make anything like that. Uniqlo and H&M have simplified versions of this look, but I want bigger and bolder silhouettes. New York and Tokyo Fashion Week are my favorite because of their street-style; geographically they experience all four seasons so the styles seen at these Fashion Weeks are very expressive. That’s another reason I got into sneakers. It was hard to find clothes I liked so I stuck with neutrals and let my shoes be the highlight. I think footwear is in a very interesting place today. The fashion aspect of footwear is more overt as opposed to being implied. While I really like a lot of the aesthetics of today's footwear I think it's important that it's balanced with a sense of function as well. Basketball and tennis shoes take quite a beating so it's important that durability is taken into consideration as well as looks.

To see the products Barton has helped design you may visit the New Balance website, or view their Instagram profile for running shoes. Thank you Barton for your story and I wish you continued success!

Sunday, December 4, 2016

Part 2/2: Thurston's Action Plan

2016 has been a year of great internal change for me. I made progress with understanding how to better communicate with my colleagues at work; I began to take action to design a life worth living; and my "life-guru," Jorge Reyes Sam, helped me see opportunities, not risks, in quitting my job to pursue my dreams. 

As the Men's Fall/Winter 2017 collections are presented this January I'm going to focus on the opportunities, not the risks. I will immerse myself in every fashion week and trade show for menswear. I will take a chance on life. I will enjoy the present. As Pablo Picasso said, "Our goals can only be reached through a vehicle of a plan, in which we must fervently believe, and upon which we must vigorously act. There is no other route to success."


My goal of working in menswear to design clothes and build brands depends on me taking action. The first step was recognizing the desire. The second step was starting this blog. The third step is to complete my insane itinerary for January/February. Every day will be packed with networking, learning about the industry, scheduling interviews, and lots of walking.


Thurston's Action Plan

Starting January 6th, and going until February 23rd, I will be attending the Big 4 Fashion Weeks and have registered to attend ten trade shows. Below I've listed my itinerary with a brief description about each event.
  • London Fashion Week | January 6-9 One of the "Big 4" fashion capitals. London is the youngest of the Big 4, and is therefore a good platform for new brands. It is best known for a more artistic-focus of fashion with more edgy, street-style designs.
  • Pitti Immagine Uomo | January 10-13 | Held in Florence, Italy, Pitti Uomo has grown from a trade fair to a fashion event. Incredible street style, emerging brands, and trend-spotting are in abundance here. 
  • Milan Fashion Week | January 14-17 | One of the "Big 4" fashion capitals and along with Paris has been historically influential in setting trends. Milan is best known for strong styling, and great craftsmanship. 
  • Paris Fashion Week | January 18-22 | One of the "Big 4" fashion capitals and along with Milan has been historically influential in setting trends. The oldest European Fashion Week, started in 1945, Paris attracts the most buyers and is the only presenter of haute couture. 
  • Agenda | January 24-25 | Held at Pier 92 in New York City, this menswear show features a wide variety of lifestyle brands. 
  • Capsule | January 24-26 | Held at Pier 92 in New York City, this menswear show features brands from around the world that are challenging themselves creatively. 
  • Liberty | January 24-26 | Held at Pier 94 in New York City, this newer menswear show also features brands from around the world that are challenging themselves creatively. 
  • MRKET | January 23-25 Held in the Jacob Javits Center along with Project in New York City, this large menswear show features sportswear and accessories, and has separate areas devoted to products made in Italy or the UK. A fashion incubator for new brands, Vanguards Gallery, is also on site.
  • Project | January 23-25 Held in the Jacob Javits Center along with MRKET in New York City, this large menswear show features contemporary apparel, footwear, and accessories. 
  • TexWorld | January 23-25 Held in the Jacob Javits Center in New York City, this show features an array of textile manufacturers.
  • New York Fashion Week | January 30-31, February 1-2 | One of the "Big 4" fashion capitals. The oldest of the Fashion Weeks. Started in 1943, NYFW established American designers as independent from Parisian influence. New York is best known for being more commercial, attracting more journalists, and features a greater emphasis on sportswear and casual. 
  • TMC-Men | February 6-17 Held in Zurich, this show features nearly 200 European brands and is one of two German-speaking fairs I will attend.
  • Supreme Women & Men | February 11-14 | Held in Munich, this show is in one of my favorite German cities and will be my first introduction to the German fashion market.
  • Collection Première Moscow | February 20-23 | Held in Moscow, CPM features nearly 700 brands from around the world and is one of the leading buying venues for eastern Europe.
Recalling the quote from Pablo Picasso, I have a goal to work in fashion; my travel itinerary is the plan in which I "fervently believe;" and by buying plane tickets, making couchsurfing contacts, and registering for press accreditation I am taking vigorous action. If there is no other path to success, then this January/February will put me on that path. 

I am so excited to meet more fashion professionals, improve my knowledge of the industry, and share interviews here on Thurston Threads! Thank you for joining me on this adventure!

Read Part 1/2: Intrinsic Motivation, to read of the importance of identifying what you want to do in life and pursuing it without compromising your enjoyment of the present.

Tuesday, November 29, 2016

Part 1/2: Seeking Intrinsic Motivation

A man I've met only twice, yet whose insight I greatly value, shared a wonderful saying at our second meeting. He too left his job to pursue his dreams. He currently is living in the desert in his RV, works remotely doing IT, and is traveling America. His name is Des, and at our second meeting he asked a table of our friends this question:

"What do you want to accomplish before you die?"

Weighing one's satisfaction with life, at the point of death, was a new perspective I had not considered before. Yes, there have been vague ideas and milestones I hope to reach, but they had never been given the filter of death. When considering my own expectations for life, the imminence of death pressed me to think about what would give my life the most meaning so I could die feeling fulfilled.

Fashion, first and foremost, made my list of things to do before I die. Whether as a designer or in some other capacity I want to work with menswear to create products and build brands. I want to meet as many professionals in the industry as possible and learn from their experiences. Fashion is one of the best platforms for building a personal identity and I would love to see more men feeling confident in developing their style. Following this round table with Des, he offered this saying to counterbalance his first question:

In the pursuit of happiness it is good to occasionally pause to: Just. Be. Happy.

It is so true. When all of our energy is focused on the future it becomes difficult to enjoy the present. I am guilty of this. Following your dreams may be the right path to take, but following the correct career path doesn't protect you from doubt.

To push past doubt you have to know in your own heart, that the dreams you are chasing are worth fighting for. You have to know that no matter what anyone else says, you are being true to yourself. You have to recognize that while you might not have all the answers now, you will have them one day. So in the meantime, while pursuing your dreams and seeking happiness, you need to pause to just be happy.

Yesterday I stayed up late to enjoy binge watching a Netflix show with my girlfriend. Today I took time to meet with two of my closest friends. I still feel the fear that I have a lot left to do, but I am making an effort to not compromise my present. Tomorrow isn't promised so make the most of today. Thank you to Des for the reflective discussion and for reminding us to value the present while pursuing the future.

Read Part 2/2: Thurston's Action PlanI will share what steps I'm taking to accomplish my major goal of working in fashion.

Wednesday, November 16, 2016

We’re British. We’re Sensible. But We’re Not Boring!

In the age of fast-fashion, Robert Ettinger, the second-generation CEO of the British leather accessories brand, Ettinger, is not one to entertain fleeting industry fads. Instead, he is focusing the company’s efforts on building and nurturing a talented team of people who will enable the Ettinger brand to carry momentum into the future.

Growing up did you expect to work in the family business?
In the holidays I worked in the warehouse and factory. It was an easy way for me to earn some pocket money. I wasn’t pushed into it. I worked in Germany for two years as an apprentice in a manufacturing company where I learned about imports and exports. I lived in Canada for a year and a half working for a great jewelry company, Mappins, where I learned about retail. Then I spent 4 years skiing semi-professionally. But there came a point where my father asked me to make a decision about whether I would join the family business or not. And I made the choice to join.

Why do you think your Father believed it was time to make this decision?
At 26 years old it was time! I think he was right; I had had a lot of time to explore my interests but it was time to get a little more serious and consider what I would do as a career.

How did it feel to begin your career at Ettinger?
I was very happy and I knew I’d made the right decision. My father and I spoke, and I didn’t need to think about it very long. In less than 24 hours I told him that I’d be in at 9:00am on Monday morning.

Fast forward to today, how do you maintain a good work/life balance?
I’m very strict with myself. It’s something I learned from my father. The office is in central London but I live in the country, in Kent. I the love open space and the woods. I leave home at 5:00am to arrive in London by 6:00am. I swim for 30 minutes and am in the office by 6:45am so I can work with Japan/Korea who are 8 hours ahead of us. I leave work in the afternoon to beat traffic but also to get home in time to enjoy a walk or run.

What is it about fashion, and in particular leather, that you care about?
It’s a craft. It takes a great deal of skill and training to be able to do well. When new apprentices join our Birmingham factory they must work for 3 years before their skills are the right quality and speed for us to meet additional market demand. It’s a lot of commitment but once they’ve developed their skills it’s very satisfying. It’s a mindset to find continued enjoyment in your craftsmanship.

How do you develop this level of pride in workmanship?
We’re quite tough on the interviews. The factory manager, foreman/forewoman, and I, all interview applicants. We look at whether leather-working is a real interest of theirs and that generally works. The young people are beginning to take a greater interest in craftsmanship because it offers an alternative to working in a big retail or office environment. We have a close-knit work environment; many of our craftspeople in Birmingham work with the sample people they have grown up with.
How do you retain this talent with Ettinger?
You need to be involved. Although we’re in the same factory we built in 1890, we’ve updated it to be more comfortable. There’s new heating, double-paned windows, updated kitchens, new recreation areas, and outdoor seating in the garden. We make a 3 hour drive regularly from London to Birmingham to visit the factory and we bring our craftspeople down to London to show them the products on display. Some of them have never been to London before until we bring them to see the product displayed in Fortnum & Mason.

How do you maintain your British heritage as you grow the brand?
We are British, we produce in England, and we have a Royal Warrant with the Prince of Wales. We’ve been asked in the Middle East or in Asia to move the logo to the front of the product and make it gold, but we had to say, no—that’s not British. In the banking sector of London the business-people have to wear sensible, dark suits, but when they open their jacket the lining is a bright color—that’s very British. We do the same thing with our products. On the outside they’re conservative but have some wonderful colors on the inside. It says that we’re British, we’re sensible, but we’re not boring.

Do  you feel like there has been too much commercialization and now there is a renewed interest in quality?
Yes. 15-20 years ago if a competitor suddenly brought in a product from China and sold it at a quarter of the price that you were selling it for, you’d go out of business unless you also moved production to China. It was all about price. That is slowly turning around. More people are wanting products made in England, that are more beautifully made, will last, and can be repaired. We see a trend of more people saying, “Let’s repair it and not just throw it away.” For example, old stitching can be replaced in as little as 10 minutes.

Do you have plans to expand into other product categories?
Ettinger has been a predominately male brand, but next year we’re introducing a women’s collection. We’ve just designed a new luggage collection for next year as well. We are expanding in things made with leather. We’ve decided that for the moment we’re not going into areas we have limited experience with. We run the risk of diluting what we do so well now.

What type of talent will you be looking for in the future?
We’re building up the manufacturing and sales teams. We’re building relationships with new partners in other countries. We have in-house graphic designers, photographers. You’ve got to do it all together. You can’t build up your sales team without having the manufacturing capability, and there’s no point in doing it the other way around either. It’s a careful balance of everything.

What has been key to Ettinger’s longevity?
We’re careful with our growth. We haven’t licensed our name—you lose control of your brand. We’ve kept complete control of our design and manufacturing. When you license your name, you run the risk of brand and quality inconsistency. Particularly today with the internet consumers can engage with us online so licensing does not have a big appeal for us.

Do you ever fear that you’re limiting yourself?
It’s better to grow steadily and surely. It’s the best way to maintain the integrity of the business and the quality of the product. The hardest aspect of fast growth is the need to supply the shops with products. You’ve got to train people and that doesn’t happen overnight. It takes a minimum of 3 years.

What do you feel is currently missing in the fashion accessories market?
We go to London Collection Mens each season and I don’t think there is much missing. A lot of new people are getting into the accessories business and designing high-fashion, high-tech products. There are some brands that are very traditional. Then there are brands like Ettinger which has both very fashionable and traditional products.

With his pre-traffic commute ahead of him, and an evening stroll to look forward to, Robert and I ended our call. You may enjoy the very British, very colorful leather products made by Ettinger on their website and on instagram. Thank you Robert, and I wish you continued success!

Fashion vs Snowboardoing


Hector Diaz, founder of men’s fashion blog, Geek Q, shares how he found the encouragement to build his own online identity and how exciting opportunities have come to him as a result.

What inspired you to start your blog?
I really like writing but never knew what to write about. I thought about making a snowboarding blog but without videos it would get boring. When I moved from Mexico to Seattle, a coworker showed me her fashion blog and I thought that was something I could do! I researched what men’s fashion bloggers were doing and saw that there weren’t many. I decided to just see how it goes. I had my roommate take photos and I wrote my first post. When my friends saw it they said it was cool so I started posting weekly. 

Why do you care about fashion?
I love it! It’s my hobby. I invest so much time in it that it’s like my second job. 

What did you learn when you were new to blogging?
The most important step is to start and see how it goes. You hear a lot of feedback (both positive and negative) when you start, so you have to be confident and have a clear idea of your goals for the blog. I’ve been posting since 2014 and it takes a lot of time; photos, writing, editing, translating, gathering links to products. In the first 3 months there was no growth for me. A friend of mine suggested I read a great book, Blog Inc, which tells you how to make a profitable blog. 

How do you promote Geek Q?
I use Instagram and Twitter, and I include links to the products I'm wearing. That has helped me gain visibility with corporate brands. Brands like to use bloggers. I’ve been lucky to work with Express, Ya Joe, and French brand Polette Eyewear. They offered discount codes to my readers. I only work with brands I care about. I need to feel that the collaboration makes sense for my brand. Also, my friends and family in Mexico wanted to read a Spanish version of the blog so I started writing bilingual posts. That has really helped grow readership by opening the blog up to the Latin market. It’s been fun to see how something small has grown so much!

Why do you believe that Geek Q readers return to the blog?
I do everything but the photography. It feels authentic. If I suggest a product then they know I actually like it. Some bloggers only feature designer brands that not everyone can afford, so I feel that my readers relate better to me because I post street styles made with affordable brands. 

How do you stay motivated to continue posting each week?
I like to be out there for people and I like to dress well. It’s another way to show people who I am. If people want to know how to dress nicely without wearing a suit my blog can help.

What goals do you have for the future?
I’d like to help new menswear bloggers with social media, choosing their target market, and picking the right camera (you need good photos to look like a serious blogger). It would be a weekend workshop for starting a blog. I’d like to grow the blogger community because it helps everyone. The more engaged the fashion community becomes with bloggers the more opportunities they will find with consumers.

What role do the #SeattleGents have in your future plans? 
The Seattle Gents is a group of about 10. We connected through Instagram and met in person this year for Seattle Fashion Week. We had a brunch so we could brainstorm ideas about how to grow the fashion community in Seattle. Maybe we will host conferences about blogging or fashion? Maybe we can do a campaign across all of our blogs to offer discounts at local stores? We will work to attract more brands to Seattle. 

What’s missing in men’s fashion?
I feel that real menswear design has been ignored for a while. People think there’s not room for creativity with men’s fashion – that’s false.  they think they can only design a shirt and pants. But they seem to ignore variables like shape, fit, textiles, proportions. Accessories means so much more than just a watch or hat. But that’s changing with more androgynous and unisex looks. It encourages people to be more creative.

Close: Hector posts his weekly men’s styles on Geek Q for both English and Spanish readers. Additional looks may be seen on his Instagram. Thank you and I wish you continued success

Sunday, November 6, 2016

Persistence and Passion Brew Success.

After leaving her native country of Russia, Natalia Luke, Founder of Narcissism Is Not A Sin, is writing her own American Dream. As an emerging designer, Natalia has presented for the first time at Seattle Fashion Week and graciously offers her insights into starting a fashion business.

How did moving to the US inspire you to leave your previous career and start a fashion brand?
My husband and I traveled to America and enjoyed the culture and decided to relocate; it felt right. 
I was a network engineer in Moscow, but felt like I  had followed that career path as far as I could and needed a new challenge and a means for expressing myself creatively. I always enjoyed sewing, knitting, and crocheting so I talked to my husband about enrolling in an apparel design program and he was supportive. I felt like for the first time in my life I was in the right place doing the right things.

What do you feel is your greatest achievement to-date for your brand?
When a bespoke customer gets something they like, and wears it, and posts pictures of it, and loves it and wants to come back to do more that’s the ultimate! It’s a different challenge. It doesn’t have to be my idea. People have really interesting ideas. Seriously!

What has been the biggest challenge you've faced in starting your business?
People buy brands from department stores because of the brand recognition, so if people don’t know you it’s more of a challenge to communicate your value. The challenge is that when you sell wholesale to a department store the margin is very low. For example, Nordstrom doesn’t want to pay $500 for a coat, they may pay $100, but in order to make a profit selling a coat for $100 I would need to order high quantities overseas instead of producing here in Seattle. It’s very expensive. Everything I earn goes back into the business. Finding the right people to guide you, and meeting the right store owners to see your lookbook and samples is important now. Another designer who sells in Seattle says that you can’t be disappointed because it can take five years before you start to turn a profit. Networking is number one.

How do you personally stay motivated?
It took me five months to produce my FW17 collection to show at Seattle Fashion Week, but I love it! You have to have the passion. When I finally saw my entire collection, all at once—on real people not hangers—it’s totally different; it’s so cool! In Seattle I think it’s also important to teach people that just because it’s rainy doesn’t mean you have to wear a raincoat all year round. I’d love to see if I can impact the local fashion scene.

How has your creative process evolved over time?
It’s important to sketch. I take lots of time to just sketch. No fabrics. No sewing. I look at my sketches and pick the pieces that I just can’t look at anymore and that becomes the collection. There’s some magic behind it. If you love a sketch you start wondering how you could change it; the design process is not done. But if you have a strong feeling like you can’t look at it anymore, you know you have to sew it; the design process is finished. I really love them afterwards.

How do you balance the need to sell with your own need to be true to your artistic vision?
I’m inspired by strong geometry like origami and I also really like Japanese street fashion. In Seattle I’ve found that the consumers prefer athletic wear so I edit my pieces to be more casual.

How do you plan to scale your business?
For now, the most important part is to find loyal customers here. In bigger markets like California there’s so much competition. You have to make clothes and ship them to bloggers or stylists and hope that they wear it, take a picture of it, and post it. Instead, I go to fashion events here in Seattle. I wear my stuff so when people ask, “What are you wearing?,” I can say that I’m wearing my own line. I try to meet local bloggers and ask them to wear the clothes. If I know they love a piece and will wear it on a regular basis I occasionally gift it to them.

What do you think is missing from Fashion today?
Sportswear is taking over casualwear. I'd love to see more people choosing sophisticated, better quality outfits that are still comfortable.

Natalia’s FW16 collection will be available online and photos from her Seattle Fashion Week show are on instagram. Thank you and I wish you continued success! 

Friday, October 28, 2016

Love What You Do. Ignore The Critics.

At only 17 years old, Tristen Mickelson, has been recognized by the Council of Fashion Designers of America as being the youngest male fashion designer ever to showcase in a fashion week in the United States. It was my honor to meet this talented designer for a cup of cappuccino at Seattle’s own, Storyville Coffee Company. 

Since you replied to my text at 5:00am, would you tell me about your schedule leading up to Seattle Fashion Week 2016? 
Seattle Fashion Week is Friday/Saturday and I'm showing 12 tops and 12 bottoms (24 pieces total) and I still have 3 to finish manufacturing. I'm getting up super early to go back and forth between my sample makers. It takes me a week from concept to execution. Day 1 is the concept and sketch. Day 2 is the line drawing. Day 3 is tech sheet. Day 4 is making the pattern; I do my own patterns and tech sheets. Day 5 is selecting fabrics. I prefer high quality Japanese and Italian fabrics in muted colors—I don't like bright colors. Day 6 is cutting the pieces. Day 7 is assembling the garment—this is my favorite; I love seeing the finished product! 

What have you learned about leading a creative team? 
I don't really know what my leadership style is, but I have a work-personality and an off-work-personality. At work I'm demanding. I know what I want and I'm very persistent when pursuing my goals. I know that if I work at it long enough I'll get exactly what I want. If I'm not constantly excelling in my craft I'd be comitting spiritual suicide everyday, this is my epitome of elegance.

How do you balance the need to sell with the need to be true to your design concepts? 
I make on one-off pieces that are at a higher price point but I also have some sweaters now that are more accessibley priced.

What motivates you? 
I was close with my grandfather who was an interior designer and designed some buildings in Seattle during the late 60s; before all the skyscrapers went up. He introduced me to design. Since his passing from pancreatic cancer in 2013, my work has become very modernistic, avant-garde and is the epitome of modern advancement in fashion. I love to see my ideas brought to life. I love making things; it's not about selling. Since my focus is purely on creating pieces I love I'm staying true to my artistic vision and developing my brand's style which will be important for differentiating myself in the market. 

How do you protect your artistic vision from the opinions of critics? 
I know what I like and I'm doing it to make myself proud, no one else, so the opinions of others don’t play a big role in my design process or in my life. People like seeing a young, ambitious individual going towards their dreams. It's something that's so admirable and everybody sees potential in what I've been doing! It's the greatest feeling that can be obtained by mankind.

How are you preparing to scale the business? How do you plan to finance growth? 
I have big dreams. I want to be the most prestigious avant-garde brand in the 21st century. I want to be in retail stores, like Totokaelo here in Seattle, and in stand-alone shops because it diversifies your income sources. I'll start with a shop downtown and I'll need another investor for that. I currently own the majority of my brand and my investor has a minority stake. I met with several investors and this guy was into real estate development and likes art, and something about him felt right so I chose to work with him.

Upon graduation you plan to enroll at Parsons School of Design in New York City. What do you expect to gain by completing this program that you can't learn by running your own business? 
I'm at an art school [The Center School] right now and plan to graduate in Spring 2017. I want to do a 2-year program at Parsons because big names like Tom Ford and Alexander Wang went there. Also it's huge because I'll get to exhibit in NYC and tuition includes fabrics; and not just cheap fabrics but expensive fabrics! The exposure will be very valuable. 

What do you think is missing from fashion? Specifically men's fashion? 
A lot! Everyone wants to wear the same clothes. No one is distinguishing themselves with their clothes. I want to see more individualism. All the fashion is on the east coast but I think more of it is moving to the west coast; culturally there's more innovation here.

And with that it was time for Tristen to dash off into the drizzle and make final preparations for Seattle Fashion Week. His new collection "SS18 CARBON COLLECTION" which he describes as very sophisticated, advanced garments, and his best work yet, will be available online in 2017. Thank you and I wish you continued success! 

—Thurston Threads

Wednesday, October 26, 2016

What If Everything Goes Right?

I made 42 sketches when I was 16 years old for what I believed would be my first clothing collection. Those sketches were placed in a manila folder, laid in my desk drawer, and were forgotten. 

FIND WHAT YOU LOVE
Over the years my interest in fashion was periodically reawakened and I would sketch again, hem some pants, or renew my subscription to GQ magazine. Invariably, after a few weeks I would put those resurrected hobbies to rest. And why? Insecurities. I was afraid of being labeled gay, being told that fashion is a saturated market, or being told that I wasn't talented enough. Regrettably, since I was afraid, my own subconscious mind listened to and believed these fears.

FACE YOUR FEARS 
It took me 12 years to face these fears. Finally, at 28 years old, I feel that for the first time I have enough self-confidence to recognize what I want; I have learned to protect my dreams by only sharing them with people who are supportive; and a special wave of gratitude goes to my dear friend and inspirational mentor, Jorge Reyes Sam, who has taught me the power of positive thinking and showed me that FEAR is nothing more than False Evidence Appearing Real

TAKE ONE SMALL STEP
Fashion was my many-year-daydream, but now I'm ready for it become my reality. I interview people who influence fashion: designers, buyers, bloggers, PR, and more. Together we will get to know these influencers through personal interviews with established and emerging fashion brands! 

If you are facing change in your life, I would encourage you to ask yourself one of Jorge's favorite questions, "What if everything goes right?" 

Thank you,
Thurston Threads