What events led you to form a model mother agency? It started with photography. From 2012 to 2015 I worked backstage during fashion week as a photographer. I did test shoots with new models who needed to build their portfolio and I worked as an assistant casting director. I photographed hundreds of fashion shows backstage; got to meet thousands of models; and learned what booking agencies and their fashion brand clients want from a model. While traveling in summer 2014 I came across one guy who I thought had good potential to be a model. I didn’t want to just send him to an agency without being prepared though, so I decided to act as his mother agency so I could mentor him as his career progressed.
And how has he done?He did very well. His name is Maryan Lukaszczyk and he walked in 19 fashion shows his first season, and 20 more since.
With that success why don’t you focus on scouting instead of being a mother agency?
I’m not in this industry for money. If I were, I would scout female models because they get paid more. Developing a relationship with a model can take years. I enjoy being involved in my models’ careers and providing the stable guidance that a young model needs. Modeling offers young guys interesting opportunities that they would not otherwise have known of had I not approached them.
Do you think it’s possible to have a modeling career anymore, one in which you reach supermodel status?
It’s very difficult now. In shows at least the age of the supermodel is finished. The one exception would be if you have a huge social media presence; that is the one thing that can give you a lasting career.
Is age an important consideration when scouting male models?
That’s one of the reasons I’m not scouting female models; men can stay in this industry a lot longer. As men age they can transition from a skinny runway model to a more muscular editorial model.
How do you monitor the health of your models?
It can be tricky, but for guys it’s easier. Men can maintain the same weight much easier than women. In Paris and London clients want male models who are 186-194cm (6’1”-6’4”) tall and super skinny. I try to scout models that look like they’re naturally skinny.
Do you do anything to help prepare your models for rejection?
I’m honest with them from the beginning. I tell them that they will encounter lots of booking agencies who don’t want to work with them. Just because an agency doesn’t want a model doesn’t mean the model doesn’t look good, it means they are looking for a different look right now, it may change in the future. You need luck and sometimes you have it, sometimes you don’t.
What would make the modeling industry better?
For men, I think it’s actually pretty good. In general, it would be nice if the industry didn’t constantly want a new face. It makes a career in modeling very difficult. For women, I hope the industry stops wanting the body of a 15 year old girl. Most female models come from eastern European countries and with the money a female model makes, which is three times what a male model makes, in one good fashion week she can earn enough support her whole family for years. They can put up with a lot because of the money. Most of the male models are from northern European countries so even if they’re successful the money won’t change their lives that much. Men can take modeling less seriously and have more fun with it.
How do you define success?
I would feel really happy if my models enjoy working with me well enough that they act as scouts themselves and bring me guys who could join me as their mother agency.
What motivates you when working with models?
I scout nice guys, and my motivation is to give them opportunities that they wouldn’t otherwise have. When I do find a nice guy and he’s excited to be working it brings me joy. I want to work with people I enjoy being around.
Thank you for your time Adrien and I wish you continued success! To see more of Adrien's photographs and models you may visit his website, or browse his Instagram.
Interesting glimpse into the world of male modeling. I liked the comparison to female modeling on a business level.
ReplyDeleteToo bad both male and female models are still expected to starve themselves.
It really was nice to hear that Adrien cares about the people he works with. I did read that NY Fashion Week had more plus size models than in previous seasons so maybe it's a small step in the right direction.
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