A Female Perspective On Menswear

Launched in 2013, ME:YOOMI showed an interesting range of outerwear at London Fashion Week Men's which caught my eye. Most memorable were a jacket with a polka dot pattern crushed into the fabric and a cape with an embroidery of Mona Lisa's face with Medusa's hair of snakes. Designer Yoomi Choo tells us about her brand below.

What do you love about fashion?I love seeing the moment when people wear my clothes and are happy. That is the most important reason why I design clothes. I also want to take part in that happiness. It is my brand philosophy that when people are happy with their clothes they gain confidence and self-esteem. I want to make clothes that add value to the people dressed in them. The clothes truly become a luxury item once the customer puts them on and feels confident.

 

What was your very first job in fashion and what did you learn from it?My first job in fashion was as a manger at a luxury boutique. I managed all affairs from receiving customers to selling. That boutique offered tailoring services where I learned about custom-made clothing from classic dresses to high end suits. The experiences during that time have been very helpful for me today as a designer.

Which mentor has played the biggest role in your career? How did they help you?I have one mentor who has had the biggest influence on my career. A wholesale dealer who believed in me really gave me the confidence to turn my vision into a business. Thanks to her help and collaboration I was invited to Who’s Next in Paris. I have always been grateful to her for that.

What do you find interesting about menswear as opposed to womenswear?Frankly speaking, I think a man’s body is more beautiful than a woman’s. I formed this opinion during a nude sketch class I had in university and still have this view today. I am pretty interested in a man’s body line. There is a commercial limit to how dramatic men’s clothes can be, but minute design details can also make a big impact. I’m interested in how minute adjustments can change the fit and compliment a man’s body.

  

What is unique to ME:YOOMI?I prefer subtlety to excess. I have a consistent brand image which I am intentionally slow to change because it makes the customers feel confident with the styles offered. Usually men design menswear so I provide a different perspective on masculinity which is not as macho and appeals to ladies as well.

What is the biggest challenge in selling to both Western and Eastern consumers?Although there are differences in taste between Western and Eastern, and also between countries and regions, the biggest problem is sizing. My clothes are mainly slim fit, so sizes need to be different based on the country.

What PR moment has been the most exciting for you? How was it significant for your brand?I was very happy with Seoul Fashion Week because I was able to have my own runway show time but even more touching was the opening of the Who's Next runway show in Paris. As ME:YOOMI was shown on the electric bulletin I felt so happy. To show my clothes in Paris, the center of the world of fashion, was the starting point for my design career. That show went very nicely because of the wonderful show planners. The most important thing for my brand is value. That is why the runway show at Who's Next, Paris, was so important; it heightens the value of ME:YOOMI.

What do you want to achieve in order to feel like you are successful?I had some success after my fashion shows in London and Paris – many buyers visited my showroom. I think I will feel like a success when I see many people uploading Instagram or Facebook photos of themselves in ME:YOOMI and they look happy.

When you need to focus, what do you do or where do you go, so you can do your best work?I usually enjoy quiet time alone at work to focus. I stay quiet, listen to music, read books, then I start my work. When I feel uninspired I drive to the riverside or seashore and stay there a while until I have new ideas and then come back. Working alone and in the quiet makes me better.

Thank you for your time Yoomi. I wish you continued success! To learn more about ME:YOOMI visit her website, or browse Instagram.

Read More

Car Designer Turned Shoe Designer

Represented in the UK by the agency, Dyelog, Redmeteor was a unique men’s shoe brand I found at London Fashion Week Men’s. Korean founder and designer, Seok SangHo, has one particular style of shoe that takes a classic dress shoe with wingtip detailing and adds an unexpected pop of color on the arch of the foot. I was so fascinated by the shoe that came back each day to look at the shoes. Thank you to Sara Morel at Dyelog for facilitating this interview!

What do you love about fashion?I think fashion is magic. Just as good magic realizes people’s dreams and vitalizes people’s hearts, good fashion moves people’s hearts. I love this magical power that fashion has.

How did your experience in car design help your transition to fashion? While engaged in vehicle design I focused on proportions and this has helped me greatly in shoe design. Cars and shoes have many things in common. They are both used when we move around and comfort is important for both. Comfortable shoes start with good proportions.

  

The Shield style is offered in many bright colors. 

Which mentor has played the biggest role in your career?Since I am not from a fashion design background, there is no mentor who helped me in fashion. However, my favorite designers are Dior and Berluti. The designer who left the deepest impression is Peter Schreyer. When I worked at the KIA Motors’ design centre, I worked with him. Peter Schreyer is a famous designer from Audi, and he is also known as one of the world’s top three designers. As I worked with him I learned a lot from him to stick to my own design principles regardless of any pressure. I am putting all my effort into becoming a designer with conviction, just like Peter Schreyer.

Why did you chose to start your own company?I wanted to create my own original style and I wanted to show it to the world. I also hoped my new style would be loved by people for a long time. In order to do that I needed to show people who I am. So, I established my own company, created a new logo, and started my own original shoe design. As I do not have any experience in management I am learning by trial and error. I am happy and content when I feel that I am growing as a designer. Having not worked for a shoe design company before, I feel that I am paving a new way, and overcoming the new challenges. Even if my style ends up as a not-famous or not-long-lasting style, I think this is definitely worth trying for designers.

  

Super Freedom shoes

What do you offer consumers that your competitors do not?Mainly two things – First, we use a special material called ‘super fabric’ that was showcased during London Fashion Week Men’s. This special material has very long durability and is not easily stained. This material is used in luxury cars like Italian Ferrari. Secondly, we have a signature look so our shoes can be noticed at a glance. World-famous motor companies have their original style. Thus, people can notice the brand of a car in just a short glimpse.

How do your shoes make feet/legs look longer?Our signature helps the feet look longer. This not only allows people to notice our shoes, but also helps feet to look longer and slimmer. If your feet look longer, your legs will accordingly look longer.

 

Jedi White shoes

What professional achievement has been the most meaningful to you? Participating in London Fashion Week Men’s was the most meaningful recent event because I never imagined showing in London when I started the company.

What do you want to achieve in order to feel like you are successful? I hope people will love my brand. I wish to show in Paris and Milan next time.

  

Shield shoes in brown and green

Thank you for your thoughtful responses Sang Ho. I wish you continued success! For more information for Red Meteor Design you may visit his website and browse Instagram.

Read More

Selling The Clothes Off Your Back

Following a busy day at Tranoï in Paris, co-founders of menswear brand, FRENN, Jarkko Kallio (left) and Antti Laitinen (right), tell me about brand they've been building since 2013.

What was your first job in fashion?
Antti: I had an internship for 5-6 months as assistant designer, pattern maker, slash whatever they needed. It’s not easy because pattern making is two dimensional, yet it’s meant to be used for a 3D product. You learn to develop a feel for fabrics so you know how to cut the pattern. 
Jarkko: I knew I wouldn’t get accepted into the fashion design program because at the time, design programs in Helsinki emphasized hand drawing skills, and I was bad at that. I chose instead to go into textile design and marketing. It was the right choice for me at the time. I was always interested in starting a fashion business but the time wasn’t right until I met Antti. Our skill sets really complimented each other.

Why was this meeting the catalyst for starting FRENN? 
Jarkko: Antti and I were friends for many years before we started talking about starting a company. The catalyst happened while I was in NYC. I was wearing a tailored jacket in a camo print that Antti had made and a man in SOHO stopped me on the sidewalk to ask where I got the jacket. At first I thought he was making American small talk but he was serious and it happened twice more during that trip! 

Were there any doubts you had to overcome while forming the company?
Jarkko: A lot! 
Antti & Jarkko: You have to be a little crazy.
Jarkko: We interviewed people we respected and after looking at their advice we decided that we just had to do it because if you don’t you’ll regret it. It may go well or it may not but it’s better to have tried. 
Antti: You have to be brave, believe in yourself, and be a little crazy. 
Jarkko: It’s also important to not try too much too fast. 

But you’ve had a full line of products from the beginning.
Antti & Jarkko: [Laughing]
Antti: We should have started with less from the beginning!
Jarkko: From a brand-building standpoint it’s easier to tell a story with fewer products. Maybe if we did it again the collection would be smaller but the branding and production would be more developed upon launch. When we launched the brand we opened a pop-up shop and already had products produced and available for sale. Now thinking about that approach I think we were crazy! 

What has been the most useful business skill you’ve developed?
Antti: For me it was easy to start this company because I already had the technical skills and good relationships with factories. I know when I walk out the door of a factory if I want to work with them or not. 
Jarkko: It can be challenging to sell a Finish brand to international buyers because Finland doesn’t have the same fashion association as Italy, London, or Paris. I’ve had to learn how to position the brand as more unique, even exotic, because we’re Helsinki-based. 

What is your core product?
Antti: I think our core product from the beginning has been the denim suit. It’s an easy jacket with modern design. We wash it as a fabric, not as a garment, so it maintains its fit really well. If you buy a mass-market suit there are lots of layers of materials between the outer fabric and the lining. We don’t use those extra layers. 

Is that that how you bridge the gap between work and play clothes?
Antti: Without these layers a it feels like you’re wearing a cardigan, not a jacket. 
Jarkko: In addition to comfort, we wanted the brand to be sustainable. We have extra fabric built into the seams of our jackets so it’s very easy to make alterations for a custom fit. For example it prevents consumers from throwing away their clothes if they gain weight. You can get 4cm more room by letting out this extra fabric.
Antti: Our retailers can offer in-house tailoring because it’s very easy to adjust the fit of our jackets. When the customer buys the jacket; he can wear it for a very long time. When the garment finally does get thrown away or recycled it leaves a smaller impact because our jackets have fewer layers of materials than a conventional jacket. 

When you have to focus where do you go to do your best work? 
Jarkko: In the evening when I’m alone at the office. It’s a little difficult to concentrate with everyone around. Sometimes I go to a café in the evening. But I need quiet so I can hear my own thoughts. I should really take more half days to sit alone for a work sprint.
 Antti: It really depends. If you’re working on a new collection you need a good space to play with materials. You have to be strict with your creative time because you will try to perfect everything.

Thank you for your time Jarkko and Antti. I wish you continued success! To see more from FRENN please visit their website, or browse their Instagram. 

Read More

Japanese Cashmere Reimagined

Cashyage (pronounced: cashy-age) is innovating cashmere sweaters that appeal to a new generation of consumer by introducing vibrant colors, patterns, and unexpected finishes. PR Manager, Makiko, offers an interesting insight into the westward expansion of this Japanese knitwear brand.

Would you tell me about the brand's history and its affinity for cashmere? 

The name, Cashyage, is a combination of "cashmere" and "voyage," and expresses our desire to share modern products using cashmere. Cashyage was founded 4 years ago by Hiroshi Taguchi, owner of parent company, Transfer Co. Hiroshi saw Cashyage as an opportunity to demonstrate Transfer Co.'s 30 years of our technical expertise in cashmere manufacturing as well as our advances in production technology. Today, the leadership of the brand has been passed on to his daughter, Tomoko Uehara.

Where did you draw inspiration for a modern take on a traditional material like cashmere? For our first collection available in Europe our three lead designers (photo above) chose to use a museum as our concept. We studied the various motifs found in museums such as paintings and sculpture. We have a camo print sweater that upon closer examination shows famous sculptures such as the Venus de Milo, and the Thinker among others. We also collaborated with artist, Tadanori Yokoo, by using his art as a graphic print.

Who is your target customer and why do you believe your products appeal to him?We want to break the traditional view of cashmere as a luxury material for older generations. We therefore innovate with design and offer interesting textures which appeal to a younger consumer.

What differences have you observed between the eastern and western markets? Color, material, and design preferences are actually quite similar between both markets. The only difference is sizing which needs to be adjusted up for Europe.

What goals do you have for the future?We are excited to continue developing innovative materials using the best cashmere.

Thank you Makiko for your time. I wish you continued success! More information and product images from Cashyage is available on their website and Facebook.

Read More

A Glimpse Into Male Modeling

Adrien Sicart, founder of the eponymous mother agency, shares what it's like to work with male fashion models. He is also a photographer who has photographed backstage at show like Kenzo and Maison Martin Margiela among others. After patiently searching for me outside of a metro stop in Le Marais, Paris, we met for lunch.

What events led you to form a model mother agency? It started with photography. From 2012 to 2015 I worked backstage during fashion week as a photographer. I did test shoots with new models who needed to build their portfolio and I worked as an assistant casting director. I photographed hundreds of fashion shows backstage; got to meet thousands of models; and learned what booking agencies and their fashion brand clients want from a model. While traveling in summer 2014 I came across one guy who I thought had good potential to be a model. I didn’t want to just send him to an agency without being prepared though, so I decided to act as his mother agency so I could mentor him as his career progressed.

And how has he done?He did very well. His name is Maryan Lukaszczyk and he walked in 19 fashion shows his first season, and 20 more since.

With that success why don’t you focus on scouting instead of being a mother agency?
I’m not in this industry for money. If I were, I would scout female models because they get paid more. Developing a relationship with a model can take years. I enjoy being involved in my models’ careers and providing the stable guidance that a young model needs. Modeling offers young guys interesting opportunities that they would not otherwise have known of had I not approached them.

Do you think it’s possible to have a modeling career anymore, one in which you reach supermodel status?
It’s very difficult now. In shows at least the age of the supermodel is finished. The one exception would be if you have a huge social media presence; that is the one thing that can give you a lasting career.

Is age an important consideration when scouting male models?
That’s one of the reasons I’m not scouting female models; men can stay in this industry a lot longer. As men age they can transition from a skinny runway model to a more muscular editorial model.

  

How do you monitor the health of your models?
It can be tricky, but for guys it’s easier. Men can maintain the same weight much easier than women. In Paris and London clients want male models who are 186-194cm (6’1”-6’4”) tall and super skinny. I try to scout models that look like they’re naturally skinny.

Do you do anything to help prepare your models for rejection?
I’m honest with them from the beginning. I tell them that they will encounter lots of booking agencies who don’t want to work with them. Just because an agency doesn’t want a model doesn’t mean the model doesn’t look good, it means they are looking for a different look right now, it may change in the future. You need luck and sometimes you have it, sometimes you don’t.

  

What would make the modeling industry better?
For men, I think it’s actually pretty good. In general, it would be nice if the industry didn’t constantly want a new face. It makes a career in modeling very difficult. For women, I hope the industry stops wanting the body of a 15 year old girl. Most female models come from eastern European countries and with the money a female model makes, which is three times what a male model makes, in one good fashion week she can earn enough support her whole family for years. They can put up with a lot because of the money. Most of the male models are from northern European countries so even if they’re successful the money won’t change their lives that much. Men can take modeling less seriously and have more fun with it. 

How do you define success?
I would feel really happy if my models enjoy working with me well enough that they act as scouts themselves and bring me guys who could join me as their mother agency.

What motivates you when working with models?
I scout nice guys, and my motivation is to give them opportunities that they wouldn’t otherwise have. When I do find a nice guy and he’s excited to be working it brings me joy. I want to work with people I enjoy being around.

Thank you for your time Adrien and I wish you continued success! To see more of Adrien's photographs and models you may visit his website, or browse his Instagram.

Read More

Torras = Knitwear + Leather

As the only brand representing Spain at this January's Project/MRKET, I was pleased to speak with Jose Maria, the third generation owner of Torras. He told me about the brand's founding and how Spanish tanned leather forms the basis for his family business.

What is the history of this brand?
My grandmother started this label in 1951. She started making knitwear so I’ve grown up among knitting machines. You have to love this business; I’ve been in the family business for 30 years now. In Spain there are not many new people learning how to make luxury products. We are proud to have skilled craftspeople make our products in Spain.

How has the style of the brand changed over time?
We’re careful to maintain our brand image no matter the trend. Every product has Spanish leather on it, and we specialize in mixing knitwear with leather.

What’s your core product?
[Shows me a brown sweater] You can guess it’s a Torras jacket! The mix of knit and leather with hand sewn details. Torras garments are recognizable and unique because of the way we work on leather. I would guess that 6 hours of work go into every sweater. 

What does success mean to you?
Success means that my customers love the brand. When you see a jacket, it needs to tell you something, make you feel something. Over our 66 years of intense and good work we have won loyal fans of the brand, which is something we are really proud of. We have to maintain a good relationship with them.

Thank you for your time Jose Maria. I wish you continued success! To see more of the Torras collection you may visit their website, or browse their Instagram. 

Read More

Passion Will Take You Far

Founded by Mario Arena & Peter Farrow in 2016, ENLIST is a contemporary brand that focuses on ageless pieces with exceptional craftsmanship and detailing. Following a great showing at London Fashion Week Men’s, Mario and I speak about his career leading up to the creation of ENLIST and how he manages a newly formed creative team.

What did you chose to work in fashion instead of say, open a restaurant?

I keep threatening one day I’ll do that. I think that once fashion gets into your blood, it sticks with you. I started learning how to sew at age three. I had a little toy angel who I made clothes for. The interest has always been there.

What was your first job in fashion?

The very first job was retail sales for the Australian retailer, David Jones, when I was 17. All of the other associates were older but because I dressed up and sewed my own clothes they hired me.

Mario Arena, left, with co-founder, Peter Farrow, right.

What opportunities came from this first job?

I think I was lucky to work for one of Australia’s best lifestyle brands, which had such an international reach; they were the first Australian brand to work FOB with China. I became the menswear designer for their US, Middle East, Japan, and Singapore markets. Rather quickly they put me in charge of global menswear design. I was lucky to have such a big role at such an early age. They taught me to focus on the details and don’t compromise.

How do you balance the practical need for flexibility with the pursuit for perfection?

Flexibility would be deciding whether we wanted three checked shirts, or just two. You have to be uncompromising on the details. We won’t compromise on using French seams instead of interlocked seams, because it makes a better product. We also bind our seams and not everyone does that. These details are critical. It comes down to your relationships with the factories because they are always trying to find a way to increase output and improve their margins . To ensure that your quality remains high you have to communicate your values to them and get them to emotionally buy in to your brand. ENLIST doesn’t produce huge orders, but we have very dedicated partners who treat the brand as their own. We have one supplier who normally will not dye fabric without a minimum order of 3,000 pieces but they do it for us for as little as 100 pieces. They want to be a part of a brand that they feel will be a big success. 

How are you able to convey your passion for the brand?

We work with a great PR agency , when they met us they said that our passion was leaping across the table so they wanted ENLIST to be part of their portfolio. It’s difficult to convey this degree of passion to a customer unless you’re speaking with them one-on-one. We try to put emotion into our copy on the website and through our ENLIST.ed customer profiles and stories.

Where did the name ENLIST come from?

We didn’t want to use our personal names because the business retains the rights to your name. Peter and I spent a good year developing our business plan because there are two sides to the business: our retail brand, ENLIST, and our manufacturing division which develops and produces collections for luxury brands. When talking to factories we wanted them to join us on our journey. In these meetings the word “enlist” kept coming up. We were so sure that the word enlist was probably not available but funny enough it was so we registered it globally.

What have you learned about leading creatives?

When I am interviewing a potential new hire I try to paint a dark picture for them to break any preconceived notions they may have about working in fashion. If they are still interested then that’s a good sign. Every 6 months we have a one-on-one to catch up and see if I’m providing enough support. Many of our team has actually approached us. They researched the brand and wanted to work with us. For someone like our Commercial Director, Eliot, who I’ve known for over 25 years – he’s a god in what he does – my role is more about creating, collaboration and strategizing.

How do you build a good work culture?

Australia and the US have similar work cultures where each person knows about the whole process from end to end. It’s different here in Europe. People are trained to do a specific job in the collection creation and are often not involved in other areas of the process. We’re a growing brand, so as new roles become available people may adjust their role to develop their interests. We like our team to be more autonomous with their roles so they understand how their actions affect others along the chain.

What is your workspace like?

We’re in an old piano factory. You walk down a street of Georgian mansions and behind an archway is this quirky building. There’s a nice eclectic loft feel. It’s peaceful. There are no external distractions which I find very good. We’re always playing music that reflects the brand’s mood to bring people into the zone. We set up one room called “The Lab” where we can be creative, pull through fabrics, measure, etc.

When time is short, what do you do to help yourself during that eleventh hour?

It’s planning. We finish at 2:30pm on Fridays because China has gone to sleep; you can’t get any emails answered. Once you get into the fashion cycle it doesn’t change. You know when each step needs to be done. We’ve done the creative for SS18 so we’re beginning to look at AW18. We’re always living in a mix of past, present, and future.

How do you find a balance between work and personal life?

I walk across Regent Park to switch off and clear my head. Regent Park is beautiful. There are always dogs running around having a great time. The other morning the whole park was covered in mist. The lake was frozen. The birds were landing and skating on the ice. Those few minutes of freedom help me click my thoughts on and off.

Thank you for your time Mario. I wish you continued success! To see more of the ENLIST brand you may visit their website, or browse their Instagram.

Read More

Sustainability by Pandas

Brothers, Oliver and James Slacke, are looking to nature for solutions to our growing need for sustainable fashion. Their brand, Swole Panda, produces surprisingly smooth and soft apparel made from bamboo. Their style references the classic 1950s but in a modern fit. James hopped on a call with me recently to tell me more about the brothers’ plans for their emerging label.

This was your first time at LFWM, what was that experience like?
We really jumped into the deep end; we’d never even walked through the space before. We got a really good response! Met quite a few magazines and bloggers. We got featured in Menswear Buyer, which is a great industry publication to be seen in. Many people had not heard of bamboo clothing before. No one had done high-end bamboo shirts before so that drew a lot of attention. As did our sunglasses; those went down very well – possibly even better than the clothing. Everyone loved the Morpheus style, and the Clubmasters. We’re likely going to return this summer.

The Clubmaster.

“Serious question” – If all this bamboo is going into Swole Panda products, what’s left for the pandas in the wild?
Okay, let me give you the rundown! There are roughly one thousand different species of bamboo. We use Moso bamboo, which is not one of the species that pandas eat. It’s the same bamboo used for scaffolding in China and other commercial uses; it’s not eaten by pandas. We care about preserving the panda for future generations. For every item sold we donate to Pandas International which helps protect the panda.

That was meant as joke but you actually had a very good answer for it.
Trust me, it’s because I get that question so often! Everyone’s like, “Oh my goodness! So you’re taking the panda’s food?” I like to give them a clear explanation; the pandas are still eating.

The Morpheus.

Do you have mentors who have guided you as young entrepreneurs?
Not really. It’s been Oliver and I bouncing ideas off each other and learning as we go. Oliver was learning about the sustainability of bamboo whilst at Kings College and the idea really stuck with him. We began selling through our instagram account. We decided that we needed to get input from retailers so we met with them and learned from them. We’re not afraid to ask for critiques and advice. Before full-production we asked the retailers and our agent for feedback on our designs. Oliver and I took this info and determined what changes to make and what to keep. We listen and ask questions. That’s how we do it.

What are you most proud of with this company?
LFWM and being featured in GQ. Those are the two proudest moments because our designs were recognized by such respected platforms. But also the very first sample of our sunglasses is a proud moment; it was the first part of our journey.

What has been the biggest lesson you’ve learned?
The biggest thing has been to listen and ask questions. Listen to the market and your retailers. We get advice from people in the industry with 30 years experience and really consider it. But sometimes it’s still best to evaluate the advice yet follow your gut instinct.

Polo shirts with bamboo fabric and buttons.

How are you planning to grow the business?
We have plans to expand our retail presence by 200% by the end of the year. We’d also like to develop a strong relationship with one flagship retailer who will really stand by our brand and carry it in most, if not all, of their stores. We’re launching three new styles of sunglasses this summer. In the coming years we’d like to have a few sunglass styles that become recognizable as Swole Panda, similar to the way Wayfarers are recognized as Ray Bans; we’re still early in the process but we are planning to introduce a full line of clothing including jeans; and finally we’d love to open our own storefront.

As you introduce new products, will sustainable materials continue to be a staple of your brand?
We will always include bamboo in our products, and when we blend materials those too will be sustainable.

How do you relax?
I have to say that the business does start to take over your life. But I really enjoy going to a pub with my mates. I also start the day by going to the gym which makes me start the day right.

Thank you for your time James! I wish you continued success! To see more from Swole Panda visit their website, or browse their Instagram.

Read More

Pitti Mini Interview: Mani del Sud

Launched in 2013, Raffaele Stella Brienza's Italian brand, Mani del Sud, produces handmade, artisan bowties, as well as dress shirts and bags. After completing a meeting at his stand in Pitti Uomo 91, Raffaele told me a little more about his brand. 

What do you love about fashion?
Fashion provides you with the possibility to change your style every day. This lets you show people who you are, or who you want to become.

What inspired you to launch your brand?
I am very nostalgic. Old memories are very dear to me. I try to think the same way people did 100 years ago: focus on the present and enjoy life today. My clothes are meant to be memorable. I love to make products that are not like everything else you see. When the quality is excellent, and design is great, then the product has a personality, a soul, and it gives you confidence to wear it.

What is missing in fashion?
A stronger connection to our past. We focus so much on our future and want everything now. I am from southern Italy and it’s important for me to keep my connection to my roots. It’s a part of my identity. How else can I produce good designs and build a strong brand identity if not by looking to my past? The past has many beautiful design references that make the product feel warm and nostalgic.

How do you define success?
Very easy: to do something that makes a difference in the world. Years ago I was in a bar in Paris and I met the inventor of Velcro. That man was enjoying success and traveling the world. He and I started talking and he told me that there was only one thing important in this life: to make a difference. I have always remembered that advice.

Thank you for your time Raffaele! To see more from Mani del Sud, you may visit the website, and browse instagram.

Read More

Finding Political Liberation in Fashion

Founded amid the 2014 political upheaval in Hong Kong, Curtis Li Studio takes a conceptual approach to fashion that aims to express more than what meets the eye. Shown below is the AW17 collection along with a narrative by founder and designer, Curtis Li.

Why did you chose to start a fashion brand? 

I take a lot of inspiration from humanity and political unrest; especially in Hong Kong. Fashion is my platform for expressing my views of human rights. Human rights never end. There will always be something for me to say about this topic.

Did you have to overcome any doubts or fears?

It’s risky to use political messages in business in Hong Kong. I don’t fear the new government, I just don’t support it, and it might make it challenging to secure funding. I’m preparing for this by seeking investment elsewhere.

Are there any benefits to be being based in Hong Kong?

It’s easy for me to source materials because I’m near China. I can spend a week getting to know a factory.

In Asia, where fair skin is so desirable that stores offer skin-whitening products, would you consider it progressive to feature a black model as you have in your past two campaigns? 

It’s in keeping with my value of human rights. It can be difficult to find a black model in Hong Kong but I found him. I’ve used the same model for the past two seasons. I find that when a group of people has less power than the majority, or is faced with challenges, they are usually the kindest people you will meet. The black community has a history of fighting for their rights, and more recently there were renewed movements, so I wanted to show my point of view by using this model.

Image from the SS17 collection. 

What has been the most helpful business skill you have learned?
Online marketing. I’m getting a clearer idea of how to communicate and promote through platforms such as Instagram and Facebook. As a younger brand without a big marketing budget it’s important to learn how to promote the brand on social media.

What is your favorite part of the work day?
It’s difficult to pick a specific part because as I like building something from scratch. I enjoy the creative process as a whole. Even posting on Instagram, looking for inspiration, and reviewing my business model etc.

Where do you go when you need to focus?
Not my office studio! I go hiking. Especially when I’m really stressed. There are easy hiking trails in Hong Kong. It’s like meditation being surrounded by nature.

What does success mean to you?
I won’t know. I’m restless and am always looking at how I can improve. I don’t see an end to this journey and that makes me happy. I enjoy reaching milestones but I always think I could do better and that motivates me to keep working. I feel like professionally and personally we can always be better so that’s what I’m working towards.

What is the next goal for your brand?
I have many plans! Before launching my brand I had a goal to get three stockists in Europe in the first 5 seasons of business. I realize that this goal is not that big now. I believe that fashion brands will and should change their business models to focus on direct-to-customer. That’s how you get direct feedback from your customers. Within the next two years I want to have a solid plan for adding a direct to customer approach to my business model.

Thank you for your time Curtis and I wish you continued success! To see more from the Curtis Li Studio, you may visit his website or browse his Instagram.

 

Read More